Baroque tour: Modica & Ragusa Ibla

Baroque Treasures of Southeastern Sicily: A Journey Through Time in Modica and Ragusa Ibla

Nestled in the sun-drenched hills of southeastern Sicily lies a region where history, art, and architecture converge to tell the story of a land shaped by centuries of conquest, resilience, and creativity. Welcome to the heart of Sicilian Baroque: the twin jewels of Modica and Ragusa Ibla—both UNESCO World Heritage Sites and living museums of stone. Long before the first church bell echoed through Modica’s gorges, the area was inhabited during the Civilization of Castelluccio (20th to 15th century B.C.). Over the centuries, it became a Roman outpost known as Motyka, and later, under Arab rule, Mohac, a place where agricultural innovation transformed the social landscape. By the 14th century, the powerful Chiaramonte family ruled Modica as a personal fiefdom, elevating it to the status of a quasi-autonomous state within Sicily. The introduction of emphyteusis in the 15th century gave rise to a thriving middle class, whose wealth would later shape the city’s rebirth after the catastrophic earthquake of 1693. What followed was a glorious reconstruction in the Baroque style, as Modica rose again on and between two dramatic gorges, forming the distinct neighborhoods of Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. The city soon earned its moniker, the “City of a Hundred Bells and a Hundred Churches,” and wandering through its medieval alleys, you’ll still hear those bells chime, echoing from the majestic Church of San Giorgio, one of Sicily’s most remarkable Baroque cathedrals.

Meanwhile, just a scenic countryside drive away, Ragusa Ibla tells its own story of survival and reinvention. Originally founded as Hybla Heraia by Siculi people escaping Greek colonization, Ragusa has passed through Byzantine, Arab, and Norman hands, each leaving behind indelible marks. After the same earthquake that devastated Modica, the city split in two: a modern, upper town (Ragusa) and the historic quarter of Ragusa Ibla, rebuilt stone by stone by those who chose to remain. Here, time seems suspended. 

The narrow lanes wind through honey-colored palaces and churches, leading to verdant retreats like the Giardini Iblei gardens. From nearly every vantage point, panoramic views of tiled rooftops and golden domes open up to the rolling countryside beyond. No wonder Inspector Montalbano fans will feel a sense of déjà vu—many iconic scenes from the beloved series were filmed here.

Of course, no journey through this region would be complete without a taste of its legendary flavors. Modica is famed for its traditional Sicilian sweets, particularly its unique, Aztec-inspired Modica chocolate, prepared using ancient techniques that leave the sugar granules intact, giving it a rustic, satisfying crunch. Pair that with a local cuisine experience—think ricotta-filled pastries, almond confections, and hand-rolled pasta—and you’ll understand why Sicilian food is inseparable from its cultural identity.

Exploring Modica and Ragusa Ibla offers not just visual splendor but a deep, immersive encounter with cultural heritage. Whether traveling with a private chauffeur service, guided by an English-speaking driver, or simply venturing on your own through this baroque wonderland, you’ll enjoy a relaxed pace exploration that rewards every step. There’s room for photo stops, spontaneous tastings, and the joy of getting lost in medieval alleys. This is not just sightseeing—it’s an authentic Sicilian experience. These towns are not museums, but vibrant communities where history lives, breathes, and invites you in for a closer look.

So bring your curiosity, your camera, and your appetite, and let southeastern Sicily cast its timeless spell.